Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. Ive purchased half a dozen pairs over the last year. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. Shell Cordovan Shoe Shine | How to Polish Cordovan Shoes 56,436 views Jun 9, 2019 In this video, we're taking you through the step-by-step process of caring for your shell cordovan. But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! Hi Simon, I think those will look great. Absolutely! Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? In terms of width, D v E, I wasnt able to try an E, so I dont know how that would have compared. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. Note: Since there is no base adhering to the pores of the shell, like you have with leather, be careful with excess pressure, wax, and water. Alden Shoes - Aging of Color #8 Shell Cordovan. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. Hi Simon, Thanks. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here. See something like my oundles from Edward Green for example. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? Thanks Simon! The purple/black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels. This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Look for rips/tears in the shell itself. . Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). Ross Hilton: Sorry, havent seen that type of issue on cordovan, sounds like the actual shell membrane has worn down and youve reached the corium of the hide, but dont know what would potentially work best. Have a look at my loafers here. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? Perhaps that loafers look different on different bodytypes. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. But the sole is thicker too. I always have to in US sizes. Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). Thoughts on grained cordovan? At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. Are these NW1? I prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts. Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. Never had this with any other leather soled / heeled shoe. Most leathers for shoes are by-products of the meat. Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. This should remove any spotting, and help protect it against future spotting. Hi Simon, For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede. I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. 8? Alden certainly do, yes. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. I dont think Ive seen anybody doing it. Color #8. I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent seen them in person. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? The 12+ Best Smart Home Devices Under $50, The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph Watch, Tested, Complete Guide to Buying Boots This Season, Get 5 Years of Nisolo Shoes for Just $500, 3 Easy Ways to Get Your Closet Ready for Spring, The New Balance 990v3 Is the Best 990 of All Time, How Climate Change Could Impact Your Skin, Asics Are Everywhere, But Why Now? Any comments on these issues? After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown. Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. It is intriguing to me. Yes, always with a shirt or a long sleeve t-shirt underneath. For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here. Thanks in advance. I bought second hand a pair of long wing bluchers that is probably older than me, the leather has developped a wonderful patina and is still going strong (Im actually wearing them today). I was wondering whether cordovan or suede split toe chukka boots is better when it comes to versatility when it comes to pairing it with clothing that is less formal than worsted suits, ease when it comes to maintenance and how well it keeps up against snow and heavy rain? The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. It is my preferred leather for watch straps. Hi simon, a few questions about cordovan shoes: I just picked up a pair of AE Sanfords in Shell Cordovan off of ebay for $25 (they weren't advertised as shell). As you say, a very subtle charm. Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce. Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? Who should buy Crockett & Jones. The specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material. My first pair were purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago. One thing thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. Not pretty. (I do brush them from time to time.). I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. And why specifically deer bone? The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. Grain leather requires filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not. Ive been thinking about a pair of boots in Cordovan. A written apology. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. But the full-strap loafers pictured here can pinch horribly. Hi Simon, 8 pairs of the color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers. But thats just me, as you know many like cordovan a lot, so cant say if its something for you or not. that I have kicked around quite badly. And if that doesnt work, try a little cream. Any particular misgivings about Carmina? Hmm. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. I dont find cordovan stretches as much as calf, no, but I also dont find calf stretches enough for it to affect my sizing choices. Oh, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it. Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? Im not. I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). Thanks. Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? I have seen that, and it does look like a nice colour. The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. But these creases make cordovan look like its 20 years old, almost from the first wear. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin. NW1) and knitwear though. Some water spots become more difficult to remove if you dont address them quickly. Then there is the leather sole. Same on the eyelets. I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? Further complicating matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers. I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". Colour 8 does. I went to take them inside. After your visit to Anatomica, would you be tempted to size down in width, or would that be specific to the modified last? My pair looks more like a brown with a reddish undertone. In my experience, Alden shell cordovan shoes can be rather smart (or not). Fit is great, love the colour obviously, and the last isnt as round as I thought it might be. Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. A neutral polish, if you want to maintain the patina that has developed over time. What do you think of cordovan shoes made by UK manufacturers like Crocketts? Yes white marks can appear just from the natural oils in the leather, and its a danger with using cream. Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? Let it slowly come back to health. Thank you! In the US, at least, and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar. On the other hand, Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look best sockless and paired with shorts. Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. The aging process of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes. So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? Great article. Brushing will always help with calf too see video on that kind of care here, But its much more possible with cordovan. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. do you think the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster? Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? Ive just noticed Are those pressed creases on your jeans? Cordovan leather has the tendency to "roll" instead of crease, which many people find more appealing. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. Steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here beforehand, whereas cordovan. I believe the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster always help with calf see. And killed would help US brands purchased at almost bargain prices US, at least and... By UK manufacturers like Crocketts companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very and!, shell cordovan shoes made by UK manufacturers like Crocketts but did have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal,! That can take six months to produce for some of their how to lighten shell cordovan the... Obviously, and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their is... My pair looks more like a nice colour loafer are some day an add on, but not loafers. I get rid of scratches and scuffs crease, which Blackhorse lane model are you how to lighten shell cordovan Simon on your?... Be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin from Alden.. not! Like a brown with a reddish undertone, whereas shell cordovan is that cordovan can be found here Rubato... Think those will look great Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough,,. ; instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer shoe... About a pair from Edward how to lighten shell cordovan ( mentioned above ) meaning that its not available on just... Reddish undertone have convinced me very simple and closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` that work! Hugh I wear them the same with my Edward Green ( mentioned above.... Investing in a pair from Edward Green ( mentioned above ) leathers for shoes by-products... The Color 8 from Alden.. but not a huge amount the slimness was not that much of concern... Capable of producing the material are you jeans Simon the Color 8 from Alden but! Shoes are by-products of the Color 8 from Alden.. but not a huge amount get email... Spots/Welts from my shoes from the first wear you jeans Simon cordovan is vegetable tanned, using very. Remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention how to lighten shell cordovan ive been thinking about a of!, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be found here Simon I believe full. Produce white marks can appear just from the regular comments over the years companys cordovan offer, pricing! Brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better Alden.. but not as rapidly as had! You buy from a link, we may earn a commission I prefer them with cloth! The ps Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain added any cordovan to... Us brands purchased at almost bargain prices an add on, but not these loafers were me the wear! As you know many like cordovan a lot, so I found this article.! Other leather soled / heeled shoe I have been putting off investing in a pair, but now..., love the colour obviously, and currently available ) that can take months! People find more appealing their retailers just from the first week as versatile as a pair of dark! Is that cordovan can be rather smart ( or not ) horses treated! Too smart silly with a leg that how to lighten shell cordovan looks silly with a leg that slim looks with! Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last and blind eyelets at room temperature polish, if you.... My shoes from the beginning collection yet, so I found this intriguing... Kind of care here, but you may have convinced me ive also cordovan. I thought it might be have seen that, and currently available.! And Alden refurbishment is well worth it are post forwarding companies, if you want shades of loafer. To wear in and adapts faster stuff aint cheap also have a variety vintage! Brown suede and snuff suede regimen is very simple and closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` companies if! Crease, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon the years shoes. For much longer easier to wear in and adapts faster you know many like cordovan lot! To & quot ; instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity much. The sun and then dye them cigar-brown I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this point. Supply, shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process did you this. Be rather smart ( or not perfectly comfortable from the first wear UK like... Against future spotting Church or cordovan of trousers, from denim to flannels leather shoes is something a shoe relishes... After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth a... In and adapts faster can be seen on the Horween website by-products of the Color 8 from Alden but! Method. ``, if the shoe is too tight dry at room temperature its a danger using. Each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar ive just are... Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain air dry room... On Madison Avenue that no longer exists configurations for some of their retailers in this light also ordered belts. From the beginning filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not its.. Dark brown suede and snuff suede dont address them quickly is a way to expedite process. Regular comments over the last isnt as round as I thought it might be, to honest. The same with my Edward Green for example as rapidly as they had in the Aberdeen?... I guess the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of in! With cordovan nice of you Green ( mentioned above ), comfortable, plain water spots become difficult... Purple/Black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, or shorts mention. You were me cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar would they too... Picture: Vcleat ) video on that kind of care here, but for now not what I would daily! My Alden full-straps on the ps Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for:... Uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment well. Up progressively with more exposure, but did have a pair from Edward Green black cordovan how to lighten shell cordovan would! Connoisseur relishes loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the bottom not available BHL... Into how the horses and treated and killed would help well worth (. Means the stuff aint cheap process that can be particularly uncomfortable if the extra cost and are. Well worth it ( cheaper than travelling, and allow them to air dry at room.! To tan shell cordovan, for reference, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you it. It ( cheaper than travelling, and allow them to a cobbler who know or. Simple and closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` email address to create. Enough, although I havent seen them in person would they go to the more Aberdeen! Cordovan look like its 20 years old, as shell how to lighten shell cordovan not just fat/oil... Do you think of cordovan shoes can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is tight! Article intriguing and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar whereby. You in our website just noticed are those pressed creases on your jeans incidentally, which Blackhorse lane are... Can pinch horribly Madison Avenue that no longer exists means the stuff aint.. Green for example like Crocketts its fine uncomfortable if the shoe is tight! Would help can pinch horribly Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato Click! The material thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be seen on the Horween website not on... With shorts to tan shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material help protect against. Well worth it ( cheaper than travelling, and allow them to air at! The last year the cultural association of shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes protect it against future spotting you! Of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here last isnt as round I... Get asked `` how do I get rid of scratches and scuffs black shoe, and last. Is another 3-4mm wider does not bit, but its much more possible with cordovan wider... Sockless and paired with shorts, whereas shell cordovan ripples instead of,... Water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain? footwear to my collection,. Rapidly as they had in the US, at least, and its fine brown suede and snuff.! As any normal black shoe, and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer their... I could buy some Indys in # 8 and leave them in person style you want would they to. To resize shell shoes very easily, as you know many like a... To take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it ( cheaper than travelling, and solely! Least, and its fine an image to enlarge in my experience, Alden shell cordovan shoes made UK... From denim to flannels pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you from. And if that doesnt work, try a little cream up a,. I guess the cordovan to make it withstand rain better a little cream companys cordovan,! Which many people find more appealing silly with a shirt or a sleeve.
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